The less expensive dog training courses were the group classes. These are more affordable for people and I suggest taking your puppy there to get them socialized with other dogs. You can find group classes through your local pet store or by calling dog groups that you find locally or online. We enjoyed getting our dog socialized with other dogs but we found that it lacks that personal touch or that one on one that you might need if you are having specific problems. You do however get to know the basics and that's important.

I also took Cooper to a personal trainer. They consisted of eight one hour courses and although they were a little more expensive they turned my dog around. By the end he was obeying hand signals and was total different dog. We were lucky to find a dog trainer that specialized in labrador retrievers. If you are having specific problems than I would suggest this is the way to go.

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Anyone who has ever had a dog knows that training a new puppy is a challenge, but essential. With any new dog, puppy training starts the day that you bring your new pet home and continues for months as they continue to learn the basics becoming a part of the family. By the time you bring your new puppy home they are ready to learn. In fact, puppies can be trained from a very early age as long as we don't expect too much of them right away. By natural design the mother dog has been educating her litter for several weeks, preparing them to survive on their own. By seven weeks the puppy's development allows him to leave the mother and ensures the strongest human ties and best socialization possible. Older puppies may be less inclined to attach to humans right away, but eventually with love and affection and our constant interaction the bond will be just as strong. No matter what age you bring your puppy home, the important thing to remember is that they are ready to learn, they just need patience and practice!

Dog training at this early stage will focus on the essentials; house training, chewing, digging, jumping, and learning to wear a collar and walk on a leash. The most important thing to remember about training your puppy is that you are creating boundaries and establishing house rules that will be in place for a lifetime, making your time together the best possible. The groundwork you lay today will allow you to have a wonderful, productive relationship with your dog every day.

Responding To His/Her Name:

The first place to start training is to begin training your puppy to respond to his name being called. You can begin by calling the puppy's name as you feed him his meals so that the puppy starts to associate his or her name with his food- a good thing! After a few days you can change the order, so that you call his name, wait for him to look at you, and then give him a treat. Once he's responding on a regular basis, you can phase out the treats, using your voice (good puppy!) and your and petting to praise him and let him know that you are pleased with him. Treats can still be used on an unpredictable schedule as a reward, but the puppy is responding to your voice and praise more than looking for his payment of the food or treats. Having your dog recognize his name and respond by looking at you will prepare him for dog obedience, puppy training classes and more!

House Training

On his first day in your home you should begin house training your puppy. Most people are surprised, but house training is one of the easiest things to teach a dog. Because dogs are clean by nature and do not want to soil their 'den', it can be particularly useful to use the crate method of house training. The first thing to keep in mind with house training is that you must supervise your puppy closely and give the pup the chance to go outside when he has to relieve herself.

Young puppies are not ready to have full access to your whole house, it will overwhelm and either intimidate or over-excite them. One of the biggest pitfalls in house training fails is when people allow their puppy more freedom than he can handle within the home and don't supervise his initial experiences going potty outside. It is important for owners to set aside time to take the new puppy out, watch them go and bring them back in so that the puppy begins to understand how you want them to handle their natural urges. We can give a general outline of what you can need to do to maximize house training, remember that you should always consult a professional trainer to guide you through the process.

Method One: Crate Training

You can tap into the puppy's natural desire to be clean and not soil the area in which he sleeps by using a crate. Using a crate to replicate the safe, secure "den" environment can aid your house training efforts, as long as he is given the opportunity to get out of his crate when necessary.

After hooking the puppy to a leash, let him out from the dog crate and take him out to the area, the backyard, a nearby park or green space, where you want him to 'go' or 'eliminate'. If he goes, praise him. If he does not then put him back into his crate and try again in about 15 minutes or so. Continue with this dog training cycle, building a routine for you and your dog. If an outing is successful, then you can allow the pup some freedom for twenty minutes or so and you can gradually extended the time as he grows older and more reliable about not having accidents in the house. Remember a seven-week-old puppy does not have a great deal of bladder control, so accidents are nearly impossible to avoid completely. You can not expect the puppy to go more than a few hours without having to eliminate, and don't expect him to wait once he is out of his crate to go, instead take him straight outside to avoid any problems.

Before taking your puppy out for the first time, decide what word or phrase you would like to associate with his behavior or action that you desire. In the beginning, the puppy won't understand the word, but if you use "hurry up", or "go potty" and continue to repeat the phrase until he goes, praising him/her when it happens, your puppy will learn to associate these words with the action. Later, when in a hurry or inclement weather you can use the cue word to get your dog to relieve himself in quick time, without having to wait in the scorching sun, or freezing rain.

Method Two: Crate Training with Doggy Door

Another, and many say easier, method for house training is to use a crate with a dog door and an enclosed dog run. First, you position the dog crate against the dog door which will allow the dog to go out whenever he needs. Because his small size, the dog door may need to be taped or otherwise rigged up so the puppy can comfortably go through the dog door. With the crate set up to the dog door, your puppy learns quickly to let himself out of his containment area to relieve himself. This method also helps him develop some independence always having his human to watch over him. One important thing to consider with this system is that when you first let your puppy out of his crate, you should still take your puppy immediately to the outside area so that he can go. Even though your crate has access to the outside, puppy may have been resting and not recently "emptied out." It won't take much excitement or physical movement for the puppies need to "go" to be present and we don't want mistakes that could easily have been prevented.

When the pup isn't in his crate, you need to use constant supervision to keep him from having accidents. The best way to have a constant eye on your puppy is to literally tie or tether the pup to your waist with a leash or line, or you can tether him to a piece of furniture, but be sure that he has no more than three feet of freedom in any direction. Remember that a puppy tethered to furniture should be watched carefully or he may chew it. Crating, supervising and tethering are examples of management systems used to support the dog until he is fully trained.

Because dogs are inherently pack animals, they prefer to be with us rather than to be alone. Most cases of adult "separation anxiety" would never develop if the dog, as a puppy, had been trained in the one of the management systems just described because early on the puppy would learn to deal with being alone, handling is own needs, without access to chew or destroy things. Give it a try and see if it benefits your new puppy and your family.

Remote Collar Training:

Have you wondered if using a remote electronic collar can work for training a puppy? The answer is, yes. Why? Because the Sit Means Sit remote collar training system, developed by Fred Hassen, is a proven, effective and gentle training method tailored individually to your dog's needs. Dog training, obedience, puppy, and even agility training are well suited to the remote collar training method. Sit Means Sit uses the better quality remote collars on the market, which means that these are fully adjustable for different dogs. The remote collar is used as a cue system similar to a tap on the shoulder that says "yoo-hoo" to someone in an effort to let them know you are talking to them. In other words, the collar is never used with a puppy as punishment, but instead as a means to successfully gain the puppy's attention. In any case, you should seek a professional's advice and aid in this type of training to avoid any elements of confusion for your pup.

Is there a specific age at which dogs can begin remote collar training? No. Common sense will tell you when your dog is physically coordinated enough to go for walks on a leash, which is a good indicator that he is ready for further training. Another indicator may be when he is active enough that you feel he is ready for more advanced training. He's your pup knowing when he is ready for further training is personal choice akin to whether your child is ready for kindergarten. Some children are ready at just under five while some need another year. Pups, like kids, mature at individual rates. He's your puppy, enjoy him but remember he needs rules, supervision, attention, exercise, good positive mental outlets, good food and lots of rest to grow up strong, healthy and well behaved!

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2. Make the crate a second home. Another part of puppy training is to give the puppy his or her own space. The easiest way to do this is with a crate. The crate provides the puppy a place to sleep, a place to keep the puppy safe when you are not around, and an easy way for you to travel. Puppies do not like to go to the bathroom where they sleep, so a crate can be a very useful tool when doing puppy house training. The crate should be large enough that your puppy can stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably, but not so large that he or she can **** in one corner and lay down in another. Do not leave puppies in the crate for extended periods of time – a puppy can hold his or her bladder for about as many hours as it is months old.

3. Never hit a puppy. It is a common misconception that hitting a puppy is part of puppy training. However, hitting a puppy during puppy training more often than not will lead to only one of two things – a dog that is afraid of you or a dog that is aggressive. Neither is the desired result of puppy training, and this will lead to a dog that does not make a very good pet.

4. Make puppy happy for coming. Getting puppy to come to you when called is one of the first puppy training steps that you should take. Doing this step of puppy training will have many uses – it will allow you to distract puppy from wrongful behaviors, it will allow you to find puppy if it becomes lost, and it can keep puppy from dangers activities like running into traffic. During puppy training, reward puppy every time he or she responds and comes when called. Small treats and lavish praises and pats will teach puppy that coming when called is a good thing.

5. Socialize. An integral part of puppy training is training your puppy the proper behavior around other dogs and people. Take puppy out often, exposing him or her to new situations and new people and pets. Reward the puppy for desired behavior, and reinforce simple commands like sit and stay. Remember to stay calm, as puppy will read your emotions and act accordingly. Starting puppy training early will lead to a lifetime of good times with your dog.

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Furniture access is a concern of high importance for two reasons: firstly, because it's mighty inconvenient to have to struggle for space on your own couch; and secondly, because it strongly relates to the matter of dominance, which is of the highest importance as far as a harmonious dog/owner relationship goes.

Your Labrador puppy knows that the furniture – in specific, your bed – is your domain. If he's allowed up onto your own, private territory as a matter of action and whenever he feels like it, that's yielding a pretty big point to him; especially since it's rarely a two-way point (when was the last time you invaded your Labrador puppy's own den and snuggled down for a nap in his bed?).

It's advisable to be knowledgeable of these things before making a final resolution on furniture access for your Labrador. If you do decide to grant him unimpeded access, you'll need to make sure that you're extra-stringent with the remaining facets of alpha-dominance to keep him from getting an over-inflated sense of self-importance.

Usually talking, it's a favorable idea to forbid your Labrador admittance to the furniture outright, until he's at least 5 or 6 months old.

When a puppy's growing up, he's forming the foundation of his conceptions as to what constitutes suitable activity, and he's figuring out his own seniority in the social organization of the house. If he's allowed to leap onto beds, couches, and armchairs (the 3 most-prized pieces of furniture in the house for any Labrador) at will and from day one, he'll have a misinformed view of his own ranking.

He won't see it as the privilege that it is: he'll see it as his God-given right, and something to be taken for granted. This does a lot towards equalizing your Labrador's rank with your own, which – as far as your role as the owner goes – is emphatically not a favorable plan. To have a good relationship with your Labrador puppy, not only do you need to be the superior, but he needs to see that you are.

To prevent behavior problems from developing in adolescence, it's commonly best to keep your puppy as humble as workable – which means that he needs to realize being allowed up 'on your level' is a privilege.

Rule number one, as far as this issue goes, is consistency. You must be consistent! Once you've made your decision as to whether or not he's to be allowed up on the furniture, you will have to stick with that decision, or else – whatsoever that choice was – you won't have a hope of enforcing it.

So, if he's to be allowed up on the couch but not the bed, for example, he can never be allowed up on that bed – not even for a instant. If you resolve not to allow him up on any furniture at all, you must ensure that nobody counteracts your decision and invites him up there.

Bending the rules according to human whims and impulses isn't fair on your Labrador. It'll only befuddle him. He can't tell the difference between an valuable new couch and a dirty old one, or between unsullied paws and dirty paws. This can have a prejudicial impression upon your own peace of mind (not to mention your dry-cleaning bill), and if you take that disappointment out on your Labrador puppy, it's confusing and upsetting for him.

This is why, if you're going to provide him any access at all, it's a terrific idea to impose limits: to inform him that he can't outright jump up as and when he chooses, but that he has to wait for an invitation.

Training your Labrador to join you on the settee is pretty simple. All you have to do is pat the space close to you, and – in a gay, warm tone – say, "Up you get!". Most Labradors need little more assistance than this, and will be up like a shot before the 2nd syllable's yet passed your lips.

The most crucial elements of Labrador training is showing your puppy what they can't do. Hence, you'll also need to teach the "off" command – this allows you to relax in the knowledge that, when you want some leg room, it's there for the taking; and also reminds your Labrador, in no uncertain terms, that his furniture access is not a right – it's a favor!

As is to be foreseen, most Labradors are less enthusiastic with obeying the "off" than they are the "up you get" command: on occasion, you may be required to utilize tangible force to confirm submission. Don't worry, it's not beastly in the slightest, simply highly efficient.

Here's what you do:

* First of all, supply him with an irresistible alternative. Being told to get off a cosy seat to lie on the unadorned floor is hardly something he's going to respond to with passionate obeisance: set him up for success, not failure, by giving him a comfy dog bed. You can create one yourself, out of towels and pillows, or you can buy ready-made dog beds in a variety of sizes and materials from the pet store.
* When it's time for him to get off, point to the dog bed and say, "Off" in a calm, authoritative voice. No need to raise your voice or yell: use a no-nonsense, but enjoyable, tone. * If there's no fast activity, do not reiterate yourself. Hold your arm pointing at the bed, and keep eye contact. If you have a keen Labrador, ofttimes it's sufficient to only compound your expression (raising your eyebrows or tightening your mouth).
* Wait for 30 seconds (which can appear like an eternity!).
* If there's no response after 30 seconds, you can resort to bodily enforcement of your command.

The Humane Physical Enforcement

Many owners drag their Labradors off by the scruff, which is effective in the short-term (provided your Labrador is of a build that you can physically handle). However, it's not advisable – simply because, as a technique, it allows your Labrador to substantiate his refusal to obey you.

He can still dig in his paws and strain against your opposing move, which is both completely disdainful and counteractive to all the alpha-dominant behavioral teaching in the world.

It's much more efficient to think intelligent: make him get off under his own steam, just by making the seat (or spot, or bed) awkward for him.

To do this, move your hand, palm-down, below his backside. Slowly slide your arm forwards, using it as a lever to gently pry him off the couch. It raises his bottom in the air by degrees, which is increasingly uncomfortable for him – sufficient to make him leap off the sofa of his own choice.

This is both more effective, and physically a lot less exacting, than dragging a reluctant Labrador puppy off by his collar: by making him want to get off when you ask him to, you're strongly enforcing your compliance requirements, which is great for your portrayal as an dominant leader.

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My Labrador, Brylow used to bite me all the time. His bite wasn't strong enough to actually hurt me, but it was certainly jolting, not to mention irritating. Now if your dog's biting behavior is pushing you to the verge of sending it to nearest shelter, STOP. Firstly you need to figure out why your dog is acting this way.

Is there a specific action that is causing your dog to switch to "bite mode", like a hug for instance? Some dogs are not to keen on being hugged and would respond with a bite. You also need to be able to distinguish if the dog is showing signs of being under stress. It's widely acknowledged that stress is the main reason dogs' exhibit aggression which leads to frequent nipping and biting. Typical signs of stress and aggression include frequent growling, barking, excessive grooming, and restless pacing. If stress is not the underlying cause then it's certainly a standard example of a dominant dog thinking it's the leader of the household. The following dog training tips for biting should take care of the problem.

Start giving your dog obedience lessons

I highly recommend that you train your dog twenty to forty minutes per day. Those who can't find the time may opt to train in several five to 10 minutes sessions per day. Get your dog to grasp some of those basic commands such as sit, stay and come.
Demonstrate leadership.

One of the key dog training tips for biting is to impose rules and restrictions on your dominant dog. Ensure that the dog perform a command in order to get what he wants e.g. he must sit before being fed or he has to respond to your call before getting a treat or a cuddle.

Timing is crucial

Learn to correct your dog right before or after the bite. With a stern voice tell your dog to stop but don't yell or shout at it. Don't dilly-dally either, as it's useless to make the correction minutes after the deed is done.

Be consistent

Set up training and feeding schedule and adhere to them consistently. Free feeding will only make your dog more dominant and spoilt.
Yelping helps

This is the one of the most standard dog training tips for biting. Immediately yelp out whenever your dog bits you. This act will definitely deter your dog from biting and it'll likely quit the habit after a while.

Looking for more potent ways to train your dog and establish a more rewarding relationship with it? Come and visit Train My Doggy Now and discover how I got my precious Labrador Retriever Brylow to become a good boy.

To find out how to get your beloved dog to be obedient as well Click Here
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tony_Reyes

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The first thing that you have to be prepared for is the lifestyle adjustment. Puppies are a large responsibility and not only do you have to have the funds to take care of him, you also need to make sure that you are going to have the time to see to his needs. For instance, a new puppy that is not house trained or crate trained should be taken out at least once every one to three hours. Is there someone in your household who can see to that? 

You also need to think about the level of activity that goes with getting the puppy that you are bring home. For instance, if you are bringing home a husky or a Labrador or especially a Jack Russell terrier, you should be ready for a very active lifestyle! 

Another thing to consider is what adjustments have to be made in your household. Is there a place to keep the puppy when he first shows up? And how are you going to deal with the fact that he might have some accidents or that he might cry all night? Most people choose to have separate rooms set up for the new puppies in their lives, a place that is barricaded from the rest of the house to minimize any damage.  You may also find that you need to puppy-proof the house, including moving things that the cute little thing might want to chew on and taking valuables off the lower shelves. 

When making sure that your puppy is going to get the training that he needs, keep in mind that this is going to be an ongoing thing. You really can't expect a brand new puppy to pick up all the rules and restrictions in a few days, or even a few weeks. You need to allocate time in order to make sure that he is going to get the point, and then you need to work on repeating these things to make sure that they are deeply imprinted in his mind. A well-trained dog is a dog that will listen to your commands and not put himself or others in danger, so make sure that you take your time with this and are as thorough as possible. 

Before you even bring your pup home, think it through. You want the best training for your new bundle of fur and you want to do things right so you don't end up with a dog that constantly barks or chews up the leg of your couch.

What's your plan for training your puppy? If you don't have one yet, get it here: http://dogintraining.info
Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lisa_Gold

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Former students of Skinner, psychologists Keller and Marian Breland, pioneered commercial applications of operant conditioning when they created Animal Behavior Enterprises (ABE) on 1942. ABE was the first company that offered positive training services.

The huge popularity of traditional training prevented ABE to succeed in dog training. So, the Breland's company was forced to look for new niches and ABE got focused on training animals for TV shows and commercials. Keller and Marian also pioneered dolphin training for aquaria and US navy.

Positive reinforcement is the main teaching way of these techniques. Positive reinforcement is not the same as reward, though this is a common misconception.

Positive reinforcement is the process that strengthens a behavior because a pleasant situation occurs as a consequence of that particular behavior. For instance, if you give a food treat to your dog when he lies down, he will tend to lie down more frequently to get that delicious treat. Thus, your dog will be learning to lie down through positive reinforcement.

On the other hand, if your dog lies down and you reward him after 10 seconds, he may not associate the action of lying down with the reward. He may think you gave him the treat because he was looking up, or moving his ears. So, you rewarded your dog but you didn't reinforce the desired behavior.

Some people think that positive trainers never teach to the dog that a particular behavior is unacceptable. This is a common and big misinterpretation. Practitioners of positive training do teach this to dogs, but they don't use punishment or negative reinforcement for that.

Clicker training is the most popular of these techniques in many countries. It is the same technique used by Keller and Marian Breland, and was popularized by the biologist and dolphin trainer Karen Pryor.

The main difference between clicker training and other positive techniques is the use of a clicker in the former. A clicker is just a small device that emits a click-click sound when squeezed. It is used to mark the exact moment in which the dog performed a desired behavior.

The absolute absence of negative reinforcement, punishment and training collars (choke, prong or shock) make of positive dog training a very friendly technique to both dogs and owners. This could be the main advantage of this kind of training.

Other advantages are that positive dog training is easy to understand and fun to carry out. Besides, these techniques are not only focused on obedience exercises. Instead, they are widely used to solve behavioral problems.

Detractors of these techniques claim that dogs trained in a positive way won't be able to respond properly unless they can see (or scent) a food treat. These people also claim that positive trained behaviors are not reliable under variable circumstances.

Although very common, those claims are not true. The efficacy of positive training is demonstrated each day by hundreds of service dogs for disabled people, police dogs, competition dogs and performing dogs.

About The Author 

Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. His website http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com provides great info on canine training and behavior.

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The first thing to do is stop giving rewards or show positive gestures when the dog is jumping. The training program should make sure that the dog would not get confused on what it needs to learn. The basic command in addressing jumping behaviour is teaching the dog to sit and stay. In this early part of the program, walk towards the back door from the front door. Order the dog to sit-stay when you do this in order for it to get the idea it should be behaved when you enter or exit the doors. Get other family members to participate in the program.
Tell them to walk the same route but they should first order the dog to sit-stay before the door is opened. The dog will have a hard time to not be excited so it is best that the routine is repeated over and over again for it to be properly trained.

Dogs, especially puppies, are impressionable but will become abusive if they are constantly given excessive special attention. Pet owners should never give a dog the right to act dominantly even it is cute and cuddly. Take note that puppies are quick learners. What should be avoided is hitting or giving the dog harsh reprimands if it commits a mistake.

Did you find these tips useful? For more tips on dog behavior training, please go to http://www.dog-training-techniques.info/.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anthony_Lee

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Curing the cause can usually alleviate this type of annoyance barking. As with most dog problems the easiest and most effective cure is exercise. The dog is probably barking continuously because he’s bored, or is trying to burn off extra energy in any way he can. Simply throwing a ball for your dog can sometimes cure annoyance barking. Play and exercise do wonders for all involved. Remember: a tired dog is a quiet and happy dog.

Be careful though, if you hear your dog barking for no apparent reason, don’t run out and start playing with him. This will only tell him that barking caused you to come out and give him positive attention. He will associate barking with a good outcome and he will do it when he feels the need to interact with you, which will be most of the time. Instead, go out when he’s being a nice quiet dog and play with him.If you’re still having problems with barking and you’re sure he’s getting plenty of exercise and attention, then you will need to train him when not to bark. This is sometimes difficult and can take some stealth on your part. The best method I have found is to spray the dog with water when he is in the act. Carry a spray bottle around with you and when he starts barking say, “stop that noise” and give him a spray on the nose. This may even make him sit down and give you his full attention.  This is a great way to keep the dog from barking at people when they knock on your front door. You can set up the scenario by having a friend come to your door and knock. You should be ready with your spray bottle and when he charges the door giving his best rendition of Cujo, give him the command, “stop that noise” and give him a squirt. Then have him sit while you open the door. The spray bottle method works great when you’re around your dog, but usually the barking starts when you aren’t near him. This is problematic because when you run to where your dog is, he’ll see you coming and be overjoyed with the attention, then when you give a squirt he’ll think you’re punishing him for being glad to see you.

If your dog only barks when you’re not near him, you’ll have to get creative. When I was a kid our Labrador would bark at unknown things in the night. He was an outside dog, and his dog-house was right beneath my dad’s upstairs balcony. When the barking started my dad would sneak out with a bucket of water and yell, ”stop that noise” and dump it on his head. It only took one or two direct hits before our Labrador understood the command.

If the barking happens when you’re not at home to give the command, and you’re sure he’s not barking because he doesn’t get enough exercise, then you may have to resort to a bark collar. These collars give off a short sharp electric shock when your dog barks. Bark collars are effective, but may teach your dog that any kind of barking is bad. There goes your burglar alarm system. They also don’t teach your dog a command like, “stop that noise,” they simply get zapped. Those are the disadvantages but the major advantage is you won’t have neighbors that hate you and you won’t get an eviction notice because of your dog.

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Like a baby, a puppy has a lot to learn and limits are one these things. First of all, your puppy has no intention to displease you so when you see it has an accident on your carpet or on the floor; it is not its fault. Why? Simply because its bladder is so small and the muscles responsible for helping to control it or his bowels are not strong enough to do it yet. As it grows bigger and older, you will see the difference.

As for howling at night don’t forget that your puppy is missing the presence of its mother, it feels lonely and needs to cuddle up. As it will grow up, and that he starts feeling comfortable and at home, this behavior will come to an end.

And what about chewing? Well, he is basically teething. Also don’t forget that it is how it learned to play with its mother and siblings. Humans are more sensitive and so are their belongings so once again, basic dog training is required.

What can you do to train your dog in the best and most efficient way possible? Well, ask any veterinarian, dog breeders or experienced dog owners, using a crate is the solution. Several people think that putting a dog in a cage is cruel and selfish but what they do not know is that later on, even the dog itself will enjoy it. It will become a safe and comfortable place where it can relax and sleep just like a doghouse. Also, your puppy will not always be in its crate as it will be only at night and when you are gone to work or any other event where your dog will be left alone. At first your puppy may not like it, but believe me only time and patience will prove you the opposite. Before purchasing a crate, you should consider a few things. For example, some crates are made of metal and are foldable and others are made of plastic and have a handle to carry it around if small enough.

The plastic one may be better for air travel or in some cases; car travel depending on its size but the fact that the view is limited due to the solid panels is one disadvantage as your puppy will feel lonelier. Also, if your puppy has an accident in it, the bad smells tend to seek in its surface due to a lack of aeration plus not having a removable tray, the cleaning is more difficult to do.

The metal crate tends to be bigger, especially if you have a bigger dog like a labrador retriever which makes it more difficult to find a space for it. They are solid, foldable which makes it easier when traveling and your puppy has a great view which helps against loneliness.

Also, a metal crate has a removable tray which makes cleaning a lot easier. Since it has great air circulation, the bad smells only follow the dirty newspapers in the garbage.

Another thing that you should not about crate training is that it helps the dog training of your puppy in several areas. For example, at night, it solves the problem of finding little accidents on your floor by stepping in them. Also since a dog does not want to sleep where he relieves itself, your puppy will try its best to control its bladder and bowel movements which will help to develop these muscles as well.

Don’t buy a crate too large for your puppy but make it large enough to accommodate your puppy when it will be fully grown.

When you are preparing the crate, make it inviting and as comfortable as possible for your puppy. Cover the bottom with newspapers if desired, put a blanket or basket in the opposite end and your new puppy’s home is ready.

To help you with the howling, as more than likely it will happen for a while, you can also take a clock that ticks loudly to remind him of its mother’s heartbeat and a hot water bag filled with hot water to allow him to cuddle against something that reminds it of the softness and warmth of its mother.

Another thing to do to help it feel less lonely, is to put either a radio, some music or the television set on so it can hear noise and voices in the background. Another thing that can help to prevent it from peeing in his crate is to control his water intake by removing its bowl at 8 p.m. or approximately 2 hours prior to your time going to bed. This advice was given to me by my dog’s veterinarian.

And last but not least, chewing will be controlled by keeping your puppy out of trouble. This way you will prevent him from being harmed by chewing electrical wires or simply from your frustration of having to replace damaged goods.

My name is Sylvie Leochko. If you wish to learn more about dog training or labrador retrievers as they are great service pets as well as wonderful with children, I invite you to visit the following sites: http://dogtraining.findoutnow.org and http://labrador-retrievers.findoutnow.org

Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sylvie_Leochko

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